WANA (Sep 04) – Rasht is a city where, when it rains, the smell of damp earth mixes with the aroma of fresh garlic and steaming Iranian rice, creating an atmosphere you won’t find anywhere else. An air that makes even the fullest stomach hungry.

 

This is the capital of Gilan Province (in northern Iran), a city whose people believe that “life without rice is impossible.” Believe me, this is no joke; if one day in Rasht there is no rice on the table, that day will be recorded in the family’s history as a “day of disaster”!

 

Rasht is a living museum of food and vibrant cultures. More than 170 types of local recipes have been registered in this city, and this is exactly why UNESCO named it a Creative City of Gastronomy. Simply put: if you travel to northern Iran and don’t sit at a Rashti table, it’s as if you never traveled at all.

Masuleh. the famous stepped village in Gilan Province

Masuleh, the famous stepped village in Gilan Province. Social media/ WANA News Agency

The Secret of Gilani Cooking

Rashti cooking can be summed up in a few words: rice, garlic, local herbs, pomegranate paste, and olive oil.

 

Rice is the heart of the table; it must be present morning, noon, and night, otherwise the meal is incomplete.

 

Garlic is so important that they say, if you haven’t eaten garlic in Gilan, you haven’t truly entered the city!

 

Herbs like Eryngium planum and Pennyroyal have flavors and aromas you won’t find anywhere else in Iran.

 

Pomegranate paste is the sweet-and-sour soul of the dishes.

 

 

And olive oil, the gift of Gilan’s evergreen groves.

 

These five elements are like five instruments in an orchestra; when they play together, they create a melody called “Rashti food.”

 

Foods You Shouldn’t Miss

Baghali Ghatogh: A simple yet legendary dish. A combination of fava beans, dried dill, garlic, and eggs. If a Rashti doesn’t like this dish, either they are sick or at odds with the world!

 

Anar Bij: A stew similar to Fesenjan, yet different and romantic. Meatballs, aromatic herbs, walnuts, and pomegranate seeds come together to create a dish where every bite feels like flipping through an exciting story—slightly sweet, slightly sour, and always surprising.

Anar Bij

Anar Bij. Social media/ WANA News Agency

Aloo Mosamma: A dish mostly made with duck. Eggplant, prunes, and sour tomatoes create a flavor explosion. A taste as sudden and surprising as Rasht’s rain.

 

Torshe Tareh: Its name says it all. A stew full of herbs, garlic, orange juice, and eggs. Served with rice or bread, alongside smoked fish, it becomes an unforgettable experience.

 

Mirza Ghasemi: The most storied dish of Gilan. Mohammad Ghasem Khan Vali, the governor of Gilan during Naser al-Din Shah’s era, created this combination of grilled eggplant, garlic, and tomato after a trip to Russia, naming it after himself. The result? A dish that can even tempt those on a diet.

 

Gilani Sour Chicken (Morgh Torsh): Don’t confuse it with the Mazandarani version! This one is full of local herbs and split peas, and eggs are added at the end. A complete stew for a culinary adventure in northern Iran.

Torsh Kebab

Torsh Kabab. Social media/ WANA News Agency

Torsh Kabab and Kebab with Rice: Two meaty masterpieces over charcoal. One is flavored with pomegranate paste, garlic, and walnuts; the other is marinated in yogurt and olive oil. Served alongside molded rice and accompaniments like vegetables and raw fava beans, there’s nothing more to say—pure perfection.

 

Nature and Sights of Rasht

Of course, Rasht is not just a city of food. Its nature is like a living painting; forests, rice fields, and the Caspian Sea fill every corner. Rain is always a guest—so much so that some say if it doesn’t rain in Rasht for a day, people think it’s a public holiday!

 

Rasht Grand Bazaar: The bustling heart of the city; a place where you can find everything from smoked fish and fresh herbs to handicrafts and souvenirs. Just wandering through its alleys is enough to understand why this bazaar is a living museum.

Baghali Ghatogh

Baghali Ghatogh. Social media/ WANA News Agency

Sabzeh Meydan, Gilan Rural Heritage Museum, Anzali Lagoon, Masuleh: the famous stepped village, Rudkhan Castle: an ancient fortress perched high that requires climbing a thousand steps to reach, and… these are only a few of Rasht’s tourist attractions.

 

By the way, if you travel to Rasht and notice loud voices, don’t think people are arguing. Some of the locals of this region of Iran naturally have loud and clear voices, which at first may seem surprising or concerning to some visitors.

 

Also, I think you may have noticed that most of the foods in this city are suitable for people who enjoy sour or slightly sweet flavors.

WANA - Rudkhan Castle

Rudkhan Castle, an ancient fortress perched high in Iran’s Gilan Province, requires climbing a thousand steps to reach. Social media/ WANA News Agency